May, June and September are the most comfortable months, with highs between about 20 and 23 degrees and manageable crowds. July and August are the warmest and the busiest. From December to February the highs stay near freezing and the lows fall below zero.
Highs rise from about 8 degrees in March to 20 in May, and rain falls on many days. The Planty and the river banks turn green in May.
What to wear: Bring layers and a waterproof jacket, because March and April are cool and changeable.
Summer
13 to 25 °C · about 13 rainy days a month
Highs reach about 23 to 25 degrees from June to August, and the centre is at its busiest. Wawel and the Main Square fill up in the middle of the day.
What to wear: Bring light clothes, a hat and comfortable shoes for the cobbles, plus a light rain layer.
Autumn
5 to 14 °C · about 13 rainy days a month
September is still mild with a high near 20 degrees, then it cools to about 8 in November. Daylight gets short and rain is frequent.
What to wear: Bring a warm jacket and waterproof shoes from October on.
Winter
-4 to 3 °C · about 16 rainy days a month
Highs hover between about 2 and 4 degrees and lows go down to about minus 3 to 5. Days are short, and Wawel Hill closes earlier than in summer.
What to wear: Wear a warm coat, a hat, gloves and shoes with grip, since pavements can be icy.
If it rains
Rain falls on many days of the year in every season, so keep a plan B. The Rynek Underground, the Czartoryski Museum, the Sukiennice gallery, the Schindler Factory and the Wawel exhibitions are all indoors. Kazimierz and the Kościuszko Mound are best left for a drier day.
Summer highs of 23 to 25 degrees on average are warm rather than extreme, but cobbled squares have little shade. Use the tree-lined Planty for shade and keep museums for the hottest hours. Carry water.