April, May and October are the best months, with afternoon highs of about 20 to 24 degrees and fewer rain days than in winter. July and August are the hottest, with highs above 30 degrees and warm nights. Winter days stay around 15 degrees but bring about nine or ten rain days a month from November to January.
Highs rise from about 17 degrees in March to 24 in May, and rain days drop from about eight to four. It is a good time to walk the markets and the squares.
What to wear: Bring layers and comfortable shoes, since the mornings are cool and the lanes are long.
Summer
22 to 30 °C · about 1 rainy days a month
Afternoons reach 28 to 31 degrees from June to August with almost no rain, and the nights stay around 20 to 23 degrees. Plan monuments for the morning and rest indoors in the early afternoon.
What to wear: Wear light clothes, a hat and sandals with grip, and carry water.
Autumn
17 to 24 °C · about 7 rainy days a month
September is still warm at about 28 degrees, October settles near 24 and November near 20. Rain returns from October, with eight to nine rain days a month.
What to wear: Bring a light jacket for the evenings and something waterproof from October.
Winter
10 to 16 °C · about 9 rainy days a month
Days are around 15 to 16 degrees and nights near 9 to 10 degrees, with the most rain of the year. Several sights close early, so the day is short.
What to wear: Wear a warm jacket and waterproof shoes.
If it rains
Rain makes the cobbled lanes slick, so slow down on wet stone. The Royal Palace, the Cathedral, the Teatro Massimo, the Abatellis gallery, the Zisa and the churches are all indoors, which makes a wet day easy to fill. Save the markets, the squares and the Botanical Garden for a dry day.
Summer afternoons are hot and the lanes of the centre give little shade, so keep outdoor walking for the morning and the hours after sunset. Churches and museums work as cool breaks in the middle of the day. Carry water and wear a hat.