April, May, June, September and early October give the best mix of warm days and manageable crowds. In October the rain builds, so keep indoor backups. July and August are the hottest and busiest months, with highs around 31 degrees and little shade, and November has the most rain of the year.
Best months: April to June and September to October
Mild and mostly dry from April, with highs near 19 degrees in April and 24 in May. Rain days drop from nine in April to six in May. Easter week is busy.
What to wear: Light layers, a thin waterproof for April and shoes with grip for the cobbles.
Summer
20 to 30 °C · about 3 rainy days a month
Hot and dry, with highs of 28 to 31 degrees from June to August and only two to four rain days a month. It is humid and crowded, and the museums and the underground are the cool part of the day.
What to wear: Light cotton, a hat, sunscreen and a refillable bottle, with shoulders and knees covered for churches.
Autumn
14 to 23 °C · about 8 rainy days a month
September is still warm, with a high of 27 degrees, then the rain builds. October has about nine rain days and November about ten, and November is the wettest month of the year.
What to wear: A folding umbrella or light waterproof, layers and shoes that cope with wet stone.
Winter
5 to 14 °C · about 9 rainy days a month
Cool and damp, with highs of 13 to 14 degrees and lows around 5. Expect nine or ten rain days a month. Queues are short and the main sights are quiet.
What to wear: A warm coat, a waterproof layer and closed shoes, because churches are cold inside.
If it rains
Rain days reach ten a month in November, and the stone streets turn slick. The museums carry the day: the archaeological museum, the Sansevero Chapel, the Royal Palace, Capodimonte and the Certosa are all indoors, and the underground tour stays dry. Plan the viewpoints and the seafront for the gaps between showers.
From June to August highs reach 28 to 31 degrees, and the narrow lanes of Spaccanapoli give some shade in the morning. Put the underground, the museums and the churches between noon and 16:00, and keep the seafront, the Villa Comunale and the hill terraces for early morning or the hour before sunset. Carry water.